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Ice axes & ice screws

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Guide

Ice axes & ice screws

Match axes, tools and screws to your route and training. A light axe carried on a ski tour needs a different grip and pick from a tool intended for climbing steep ice.

Key points

  • A classic axe can be held by the head for travel on snow.
  • Curved technical tools give your hand more clearance on steep ice.
  • Match screw length to the usable thickness of the ice.
  • Replacement picks and rests must fit the exact tool model.

What does your route require?

UseChooseBear in mind
Snow and classic mountaineeringChooseClassic ice axeBear in mindMatch shaft length and head shape to walking and the techniques you have learnt.
Technical mountaineeringChooseCompact curved axeBear in mindBalance small packed size against handling on the sections you intend to climb.
Steep iceChooseTechnical ice toolBear in mindGrip, pick and glove need to work together; practise handling before the trip.

What to look for

QuestionIn briefWhy
Which length?In briefMatch terrain and handlingWhyA short axe packs away easily. A longer shaft may feel more comfortable when walking on snow.
Which pick?In briefOne suited to tool and useWhyShape and material affect placement. Use the maker's specified replacement parts and maintain the working edges.
Which screw?In briefMatch ice thickness and conditionWhyChoose a length suited to the usable ice. Learn to judge ice quality and placements through practical instruction.

Common questions

Can I climb ice with any axe?

For steep ice, use a tool intended for that purpose. Classic axes have different shapes and handling. Discuss the equipment for your route during training or with a qualified leader who understands the conditions you will encounter.

What does a screw's crank do?

It makes turning the screw by hand easier. Compare how you can operate the crank and hanger with your gloves on. Keep the teeth sharp and protect them during transport so that the screw can start cleanly.

Should I choose a hammer or adze?

Base the choice on the tasks along your route and the rest of your equipment. An adze helps with snow work; a hammer serves different mountaineering tasks. Ask your instructor to explain what you need for the particular trip.

How should I carry the equipment?

Cover picks, spikes and screw teeth with suitable protectors. Secure the tools so they cannot injure anyone or fall out. After the trip, dry them, inspect for damage and maintain them according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Last updated: November 2026

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