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Guide
Carabiners
Choose carabiners and quickdraws by their role in your protection system. Gate, shape and handling must suit the device and rope; manufacturer instructions take priority over general buying advice.
Key points
- Choose equipment explicitly approved for the intended use.
- Check shape and gate compatibility with your belay device.
- Check markings, gate closure and condition before use.
Which choice for which use?
| Use | Your choice | Consider |
|---|---|---|
| Belay device | Your choiceA locking carabiner suitable for the device | ConsiderAn HMS shape alone does not prove compatibility |
| Sport climbing | Your choiceAppropriate quickdraw sets | ConsiderDistinguish rope and bolt ends as instructed |
| Organisation | Your choiceCarabiners for the stated purpose | ConsiderAccessory clips are not belay carabiners |
Construction compared
Screwgate (Lock deliberately)
A screw-sleeve carabiner for its approved applications.
- Advantage: Deliberate control of the locking sleeve
- Drawback: Check the sleeve is fully screwed closed
Wire gate (Non-locking)
A non-locking wire gate for its stated purpose.
- Advantage: Direct gate operation
- Drawback: Cannot replace a required locking connector
What to look for
| Question | In brief | Why |
|---|---|---|
| What is it approved for? | In briefRead instructions and markings | WhyA similar-looking accessory clip must not become part of a personal protection system. |
| Does it suit the device? | In briefCheck compatibility | WhyShape, cross-section and gate can affect behaviour in the belay device. |
| Can you check closure? | In briefHandle it without loading | WhyThe gate must close completely; convenient handling does not replace checking it. |
Frequently asked questions
What is an HMS carabiner?
The name describes a carabiner shape and intended application. Compatibility with your particular belay device follows the device instructions, not the outline alone.
Screwgate or automatic gate?
Both need correct operation and checking. Choose around intended use and device instructions. An automatic gate does not remove the need to check complete closure.
Can quickdraw parts be mixed freely?
Carabiners, sling and any retainer must be compatible and used as intended. Follow the instructions for the set and distinguish the rope end from the bolt end.
When should equipment be replaced?
Follow the manufacturer criteria, including damage and exceptional loading. A visual check by a non-specialist cannot confirm remaining strength; stop using equipment if you are unsure.
How much does an example weigh?
For example, Edelrid lists Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw FG at 80 g. Compare weight figures only when their reference sizes match.
Last updated: October 2026
What for?
Locking gates
Choose a locking gate approved for your intended task. Check the device instructions and complete closure.
- Read instructions
- Check compatibility
- Check closure
Non-locking gates
These non-locking carabiners are for their specified use. They do not replace a locking connector required by a belay device.
- Read instructions
- Check compatibility
- Check closure
Belay device
Shape alone does not establish compatibility. Follow the belay-device instructions and check the connector without loading it.
- Read instructions
- Check compatibility
- Check closure
Handling
Try the locking mechanism and deliberately check full closure. An automatic gate also needs this check.
- Read instructions
- Check compatibility
- Check closure
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Brands we carry
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- Black Diamond
- C.A.M.P.
- Edelrid
- Exped
- Garmin
- Mammut
- Ocun
- Petzl
- Salewa
- Sea to Summit
- Trespass
- Wild Country
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