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Nuts & cams

Guide

Nuts & cams

Build your rack around the cracks on your route. Nuts, cams and offset shapes complement each other; learn to place and assess protection through practical, qualified instruction.

Key points

Nuts suit appropriate constrictions; cams can also fit parallel cracks.
Compare actual size ranges rather than colour alone.
Offset shapes can help with irregular cracks.
Check wires, slings and moving parts before every use.

What crack shape do you expect?

Use	Choose	Bear in mind
A narrowing crack	ChooseA correctly sized nut	Bear in mindThe nut needs sound contact in the intended direction of pull.
A parallel crack	ChooseA cam within its working range	Bear in mindCheck contact of all lobes and follow the instructions.
Irregular cracks	ChooseOffset nuts or cams	Bear in mindMatch the shape to the actual contact surfaces.
Varied crack sizes	ChooseA coordinated set	Bear in mindCompare gaps and useful overlaps in your existing rack.

What to look for

Question	In brief	Why
Which size?	In briefCompare the dimensions in the manual	WhyColours and numbers vary between brands. Compare the actual working ranges side by side.
Set or single piece?	In briefFill gaps in your rack	WhyA set covers several ranges. An individual piece may be better for filling a specific gap.
What needs checking?	In briefWire, sling and mechanism	WhyDamage, corrosion or a stiff mechanism need assessment according to the manufacturer's instructions.
How do I learn?	In briefPractise with qualified instruction	WhyPlacements and rock assessment require practical skill. Build that experience before relying on your own protection.

Common questions

How does a nut differ from a cam?

A nut has no moving lobes and works in a suitable constriction. A cam uses moving lobes and, depending on the shape, can also fit parallel cracks. Each needs sound rock and correct placement.

Are the same colours equivalent across brands?

Compare the dimensions and working ranges of the actual models. Colours mainly help you identify a piece quickly within its own system; they are not a universal sizing chart.

When is an offset nut useful?

An asymmetric shape may fit irregular cracks or pin scars more closely. Actual contact and the direction of loading matter, and you need to learn to assess these through practical experience.

How should I care for cams?

Clean and dry them as instructed. Apply lubricant only where specified and keep it away from slings. Remove damaged or uncertain equipment from use until it has been assessed by a competent person.

Last updated: November 2026